If this is a reposted question, then please just link me, however I did search for it, and couldn't find anyone who posted about this.
I'm looking for examples of how to run battles on a battlemap (either hex or square), as the book doesn't seem to touch on it at all. Any suggestions or pointers?
I'd hate to come up with my own system because I'll feel like I'm reinventing the wheel.
Not to be snide, and perhaps I'm being naive, but ... Movement rates are SR4 p.138. Ranges are p. 139. Cover modifiers are p.140. What are you looking for beyond that?
We use squares and just kind of assume that every square equal X meters, depending on your environment. For most situations we use an X=3.
We use a hex mat and call the hexes 2m each. Unlike some other games, SR4 is married to any particular mat layout.
We use squares and every square is equal to 1 or 2 meters depending on the environment. We haven't had a fight spread out far enough to need more than that yet, but we've also only played three sessions.
| QUOTE |
| Not to be snide, and perhaps I'm being naive, but ... Movement rates are SR4 p.138. Ranges are p. 139. Cover modifiers are p.140. What are you looking for beyond that? |
You could always just round up to an even number after all the modifiers are in place.
| QUOTE (dcpirahna) |
| We use squares and just kind of assume that every square equal X meters, depending on your environment. For most situations we use an X=3. |
We have done 1m squares, but that is definately too small. I would recommend two or three and just round. A square here or there doesn't make too much difference. If it really comes down to it just roll a die (4-6 in favor of players, 1-3 otherwise.)
The SR miniature movement system is more akin to other non-gridded systems like Battletech, Warhammer 40k, and the more recent MechWarrior and the other WizKids clickable games. There are no grids, just a scale (1" = x meters). If your miniature is supposed to move 7 meters in one turn then on a 1 inch scale surface he moves 7 inches. If he moves some oddball fraction because of multiple actions, then he just moves some oddball fraction (e.g. 7 inches over 3 actions = 2 2/3 inches per action). Measuring tape makes this all possible and it's been done since long before gridded mats were even available. =)
As others have pointed out above, this can be roughly adapted to a gridded surface.
In our game, we use the gridded surface mainly for scale and as a guide for drawing building walls along straight lines. =)
| QUOTE (masterpenguin @ Apr 24 2006, 08:39 AM) | ||
well sure the rates are there, however, they aren't in any easly divisable number IE: walking rates for dwarfs vs trolls is 8 and 15. A running characters speed is also modified by a dice pool. Unless I was to make every square 1m (Which I think would be too small for most combat situations) there doesn't seem to be a good way to standardize the map. |
[insert discussion of how moving diagonally on a square grid quickly throws movement rates way, way the hell off]
Just count double for each odd square. Not exactly pythagorean, but close enough for government work.
Meh, its close enough for game purposes since everyone's bound by the sames rules but you're right, hexes are better.
Edit - With a nice large map, you could just measure out distances with a paper tapemeasure and avoid the hexes or squares all together. Just have a compass, ruler and tape handy.
The problem we've had with hexes is that they work very poorly when it comes time to start drawing walls because you have to cut hexes in half.
| QUOTE (James McMurray) |
| The problem we've had with hexes is that they work very poorly when it comes time to start drawing walls because you have to cut hexes in half. |
There's actually no reason to round movement just because you are on a grid. If you start in a 2m square and move 5 meters, you just end up standing on a line.
This isn't D&D. There's no "1 character per square" rule or even a rule that says you have to be in a square (or hex). Live life on the edge!
There are no "one character per square" rules because there are no square rules at all. If using 1m squares there's probably no way for two people to occupy the same square without some penalties or grappling.
And if you're just going to ignore the squares, why use them at all? Use a tape measure instead.
Digital vs. Analog, you make the call!
The bottom line: unlike D&D where every combat seems to operate on a "virtual grid", SR is not bound to such a system.
Come up with whatever rules you and your group thinks is fair and go with that. I have only used a battlemap in SR in very rare, large-combat sequences. Even then, everyone knew it wasn't an "exact scale" sort of thing. It was there for general, relative positioning purposes. My players will still ask me, "How far am I from this guy?" and I would just wing it with a "Ehhhh... (blah) metres." My opinion is: if you want something more exact, play a minitures game.
SR can be a miniatures game if that's what works for the group. you don't really need anything more than some squares/hexes and a size for each of them.
Having played both hex-based and tape-based (no grid of any kind, you simply use a tape measure or ruler) miniature games, I vastly prefer tape-based. Makes it easy to figure out stuff like going around corners, zig-zagging down a hall, that kind of thing... and it prevents the guy making the map from trying to force it to conform to the lines on the paper. Diagonal hallways, round rooms, that kind of thing all become relatively easy to do.
And it's more conducive to making terrain that players can look at and go "OOooo..."
Any time I have to use a map I have a squared map board. Normally I would say you should use a no grid board as it is more accurate to the fluid nature of the SR system. The rules cover movement in the SR 4 book on page 138.
Probably you might find something of interest in http://forums.dumpshock.com/index.php?showtopic=10281&hl= older DS thread.
Unfortunately the link to the pdf file doesn´t work anymore. Maybe Veggiesama (who originally posted the pdf) can fix it.
I bought two 34.5" by 48" mats that has 1" squares subdivided into 1/4" squares. I then bought two pieces of clear vinyl to put over them to use the dry erase markers on to protect the mats. This covers my entire, rather large, table. Then we use 1" = 1m for most times, and if we need a larger environment, we use smaller marker die, where 1/4" = 1m. We also keep a tape measure and ruler around for quick measurements. It helps to save time instead of counting boxes. We haven't had any problems yet.
Or you could get Shadowrun DMZ
I have it, and it's handy. They didn't have squares or hexes, there were *s spaced across the map, and the scale was 2m between them, so you just moved from * to *
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